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Messages - AdeV

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1
General Discussion / Re: Not seeing my posts/replies under "My Messages"
« on: August 20, 2026, 09:36:48 AM »
Yours should be under "Sent Items" - however... I believe the default setting in the forum s/w is to NOT save messages you send. There should be a tick-box on the message indicating it should be saved; and there's a setting somewhere in your profile options to save them by default.

I'll try and get some screenshots later.

2
General Discussion / Re: Lister DL1 1963 - New Member
« on: August 05, 2026, 05:27:02 PM »
PS: That's a cool trolley.... I think you should move the engine back far enough that you can stand on the trolley in front of it, then connect it via a motorcycle clutch to the rear wheels, and make it into a poor man's Lister Autotruck!

Someone did something similar (albeit far more dangerous and amusing) with an old Petter PAZ1 and a mobility scooter... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5_7KQ7rYKs

3
General Discussion / Re: Lister DL1 1963 - New Member
« on: August 05, 2026, 05:23:17 PM »
Welcome Ian!

I once picked up an old CS engine (destined to be exported to the USA) from Norwich - it looked like it had been stored upside down in the sea for several years!!

General Discussion is probably the best place for answers, although posting in either the Listeroids or Original CS engines forums wouldn't be frowned upon.


First question is regarding the RPM of this particular engine which, according to the label, seems set up for 1000 RPM and 2 HP - Does this mean that the governor has been set with weights and spring to run opimally at this speed and HP?


That probably depends on what this engine came from originally. A typical application might be a large cement mixer, in which case yes - the governer will be set up to run at a fixed 1000rpm, which should yield approx 2 horsepower. If it came off a dumper truck, for example, it would be governed to an idle speed & have a throttle on the rack - although I've never seen such a setup, so that's basically an assumption.

AIUI the LD series were governed either to 1000 or 1200rpm, but again, not gospel, there might be other variations.

4
Hi there, Members,

I have a Lister Engine, driving a generator, and I don't have anyidea, as to what ge it is, and I would like to be able to find out so that I might be able to get original parts for it.

I have had some updates done, basic ones, I must add, and I can't get an original fuel filter for it, so it was decided to put an In-line Filter in, and it seems to be working okay so far.

Any useful information would be most welcome.

Regards,

Peter

Hi Peter,

As 38ac says... we need a little info to go on first!

Probably your best starting point is this web page; it has a picture of pretty much every Lister engine type ever made - find the one that looks most similar to yours, and let us know its type!

If you can find the serial number plate (usually a brass or black enamelled plate) on the engine, it should have a serial number, spec number, often a horsepower and (for fixed RPM engines) an RPM value stamped or printed on it.  If the engine has exposed flywheels (like the CS engines), you should also be able to find the serial number stamped into the rim of the flywheels. I believe that all flywheels should have the serial number stamped in, but it'll be difficult to see where the flywheel is enclosed.  If you can find the engine info plate, try giving it a clean with some degreaser, grab a photograph, and either post it here, or post the numbers/values if they're easy to read.

For example, a pre-1950 Lister CS 6/1 engine would typically have a serial number like C.S. 12345 (sometimes the dots were there, sometimes not). A post-1950 CS 6/1 might look like 123461RZ3 (the R & Z may well not be there). After 1980, the format changed again to show year, engine no. type, rotation  & build no as separate fields in the serial number box.  So depending on how old your engine is, will determine the format of the serial number.

Good luck!

5
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: Manuals for sale...
« on: July 17, 2026, 04:15:48 PM »
Is the LR manual still available?

Hi,

I bought the lot off Dave, they're currently sitting in a box under my desk waiting for me to get A Round Tuit (scanning them). The aim is to make scans of them available to members FoC, once I've figured out how to put them on the website & restrict them to forum members...

I can look for an LR manual in the collection if you need something specific?

6
General Discussion / MIA - May '26
« on: June 02, 2026, 09:14:46 AM »
Please accept my apologies if you've been unable to access the forum for the last week or two - I've been experimenting with firewalling out the spammers, scrapers, bots and other undesirables... and I have a feeling I might have accidentally taken out real users too...

I've cleared the firewall for the time being. I'm trying to get hold of the DNS details for the forum so I can move it to a new (faster, better) server, but in the meantime, we are where we are.

Please let me know if you have any issues.

Cheers!
Ade.

7
General Discussion / DOWNTIME: May 2026
« on: May 19, 2026, 02:34:27 PM »
Hey folks,

Really sorry about the downtime for the last 24 hours or thereabouts - but the server was under what appears to be a continuous DDOS/Scraper attack (18,000 concurrent users online is not a normal number for this forum!). In fact, if you look at the 2026 stats vs 2025, you'll see that the Bots have really been hammering us all year...

I've been adding any networks which seem suspicious to the firewall - around 2000 added today when we were at 18,000 guests online despite the forum being in maintenance mode(!). Hopefully I've not kicked any real users, but I'm working on a way of letting people who do fall into the trap accidentally to at least let me know.

In the meantime, I see we're down to a more sensible number of visitors now, so I'll hopefully be able to leave the site on for the foreseeable future.

Thanks for your patience and understanding.

Ade.

8
Petteroids / Re: Petter PC1 Engine in a Crawley 75 Tractor
« on: May 13, 2026, 09:29:16 AM »
Very nice!

Cool demo of Ackermann steering too...

9
Engines / Re: need to help for ST2
« on: May 07, 2026, 09:25:09 AM »
Hello and thank you for your help and advice.
 Stuck, not locked. That is, I turn the handle but it gets stuck somewhere and doesn't move. Of course it goes backwards. I also feel like it's a physical collision. And of course it's caused by temperature. Another thing is that when it turns off, a lot of black smoke comes out. My guess is that the fuel settings are messed up. Also, it burns about 10 liters of diesel every 4 hours under load. Of course, I don't know if this is a standard amount or a lot!

Black smoke is suggestive of over-fuelling - you would typically get black smoke when increasing throttle under load. But it's also burning - unburnt (or partially burnt) is light grey smoke (and often lots of it). I think you're going to need to whip the heads off immediately after it's failed to determine the cause. It kind of sounds like it might be hydro-locked, i.e. enough raw diesel has built up in one of the cylinder heads to prevent the piston from completing a stroke - except if you operated the decompression lever, that should let it roll all the way over.

With respect to the fuel consumption - I don't know... but if you can tell me roughly what RPM you run it at under load (assume when it's working OK!), then it should be possible to calculate an efficiency, which should tell us if it's in the ballpark or not.

If you're pretty sure it's overheating, then the things to look at are the fan on the flywheel (make sure it's not clogged up with stuff), and also the fins on the cylinders (also need to be clean and clear). Although if it's any consolation, I have a lawnmower engine which overheats for no apparent reason... and despite cleaning it thoroughly, it still refuses to behave.

10
Picked up this SR2 powered Empire generator. It's bee sitting for years. I'm in discovery mode,
and for one of several issues, the rack seems to be stuck. Appreciate hints on how to free it up.

Try soaking it in WD40/Kroil/Marvel Mystery Oil/the infamous ATF+Acetone mix, or any other kind of penetrant. Probably the thinner the better...  Keep sousing it, wait a little while, then give it a gentle tap with a wooden/plastic screwdriver handle, in whichever direction it needs to move. Repeat until it moves. When it moves, it'll probably move a tiny bit & stick again. Keep soaking/tapping. Once you've got a 1/8" or more of movement, you can try push/pulling it to see if you can work the penetrating oil in there a bit more.

If it absolutely will not move no matter what... it's probably rusted up. Unfortunately I don't know the layout of the SR2: I had an LR1 which had a stuck rack, being fully enclosed though it did respond to the oil treatment.


Quote
The forum doesn't seem to like attachments, so no pics.

Yeah, I continue to scratch my head over this one. SirPedrosa can post pictures, but they all seem to go sideways. Others like yourself can't post them at all. I've got the settings up quite high on what it'll accept, but nothing much seems to help.

All I can suggest is to try to shrink them in a photo editor/image editor, and re-post the smaller versions.

Cheers,
Ade.

11
Engines / Re: need to help for ST2
« on: May 05, 2026, 01:58:29 AM »
Hmm, that's pretty weird.

My immediate thought is it's over-fuelling on one cylinder leading to a hydraulic lock when there's too much diesel in there; but honestly that seems like a stretch - and you'd be able to discount it by opening the decompression levers, at which point the engine should turn all the way around.

As it's happening at higher speeds (and, presumably, load?), it could be temperature related. When you say it "gets stuck somewhere", do you mean like a hard-stop? e.g. turn the engine by hand in it's normal direction - does it stick like it hit something, or does it get stuck like it walked into wet asphalt, sort of soggy but persistent? Once it's stuck, can you rotate it backwards, or is it now stuck in both directions?

If it's a sort of "sticky" stuck, my gut feel would be it's got too hot, the pistons/rings have expanded, and it's sticking with one piston up at top or bottom dead centre where it's most likely to have the least wear in the barrel. Given that it frees up again later, this is my best idea. Another possibility would be a bad bearing, although AIUI if a bearing seizes, it rarely works again without an overhaul.

If it's a hard stop that you can reverse away from, then something physical is interfering. I can't imagine what - if it were a stuck valve you'd know about it already, because it'd be bent all to hell having been hit by the piston - if that's even possible with an ST engine.

Personally, I'd buy an infra red temperature gauge (one of those you point at something to get a temperature): Run the engine at 1500 for a while to get it up to temperature - record the temperature of both cylinder heads (just below the valve covers). Now run it up to working speed & watch the temperatures. If they start rising significantly; you're headed for a seize, so shut it down. But at least you'd have confirmed it's getting hot: Next challenge is to find out why...

12
Engines / Re: Petter PH1 rebuild
« on: March 27, 2026, 10:19:41 AM »
At a guess, it's knackered it's big-end (and maybe little-end) bearings having run with no oil. In that respect, it's going to be exactly the same as the petrol engines you're used to. I'm not familiar with the PH1 (the only Petter I've ever owned was a PAZ1), but there should be some easy way to access the crank bearing. The little end will presumably require the barrel to be removed to extract the piston out of the top. You'll also want to check the rings & bore for excessive wear. So far, all the same.

The main difference with a diesel will be bleeding the fuel system after you've replaced the bearings: Any air bubbles in the system will stop it running.... But I'd recommend doing all the bearings first. I'm guessing that the "down on power" is due to excess friction due to buggered bearings. Assuming it didn't stop itself due to lack of oil, it's unlikely you've terminally damaged it, I suspect.

WRT ring gears: I added a flex plate from an old automatic engine to the generator head on my Lister CS setup. The PH has a smaller flywheel though, so I'd say drill & tap the flywheel to accept a flex plate (there should be a billion of them in any nearby scrap yard), then figure out a way to hold a 12v starter motor in the correct place. However.... that's based on not knowing how your dumper connects to the engine: If it's got a bell housing that covers the flywheel, then you might need to do something different... There may even be a kit for your specific dumper/engine setup?

13
Lister Market Place (things for Sale) / Re: FS: Bamfords Z/410
« on: March 27, 2026, 09:27:24 AM »

How do I share videos? I have 2 video of just under 3 min each that I'd like to post; one of a walk around, the other of the first startup described above.


The simplest way to share videos is to upload them to YouTube, then post the links in a message here. If you don't want to make them "general release" (i.e. anyone on YT can find them), mark them as "unlisted" - people you share the link with can still see them.


14
Engines / Re: Wall of Shame
« on: March 19, 2026, 12:57:02 AM »
I don't have an 8hp engine to verify, but I think the bottom castings are the same across all 3 power levels aren't they (3.5, 6, 8 )?  i.e. any bottom end would do you. I do know the crank shaft changed diameter at some point, IIRC from 2" to 2.5", or maybe that was the 3/3.5hp version that had the thinner crank shaft?

Someone may need to keep me honest here...

15
Engines / Re: Wall of Shame
« on: March 15, 2026, 01:28:30 PM »
Looks like the base casting has failed to me. Was it the entire top end of the engine above the crank bearings that flew? I guess with an 8hp explosion behind it, 5ft is probably about right for a launch.

Damn shame, it looks pretty irreprable; although you might get lucky & be able to salvage certain parts - the flywheels, maybe even the head/barrel if it didn't take impact damage.

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